Hanoi – a mixture of discreet charm and excitement

To visit HANOI is to steep yourself in history, tradition, and legend in a capital that has been inhabited continuously for almost a millenium. Visitors often note that the city is quieter, greener, and "cooler" than other big cities of Vietnam. Indeed, Hanoi itself, and the Northern Vietnam, have quite clear four seasons, and October to March are lovely pretty cool months whilst other towns southward just have dry and rainy times. It probably influences in the mentality of the inhabitants and the city seems attract more intellectuals and artists, while Saigon is great for entrepreneurs and hustlers.

Hanoi's present architecture is mainly from the 19th and 20th centuries, and the French-built section of the town is largely intact. Yet, the city preserves many old religious temples and shrines dedicated to the nation's heroes or deities, who supported the farmers to cultivate and protect the fertile land on the Red River right bank and gather the first commercial guilds to form what later became an exciting urban town. Hanoi street life now is fascinating. In the early morning, you can see people both young and old practicing "tai chi quan" or martial arts in the parks and joggers along pretty lakes. Outdoor barbers with mirrors simply hung on the street walls and women selling great French baguettes and flowers are also at every street corner. If you go for a walk, the motorbikes and cyclos may make you wonder a bit which directions they move on, but as soon as you get a chance to try one of them, you could say they are not so risky like they seem to be, as the local drivers have extremely special skills to avoid one another (!). Thus a deliberate Cyclo tour for one or two hours is so far the best way to visit the Old Quarter, 90% of which are narrow and short streets.

During the two Indochinese Wars in 20th century, Hanoi had been heavily damaged, but there is virtually no evidence that now and the particularly thin, tall, often awkward-looking buildings that you see on streets are not a result of bombing, but are created by landowners who own only a thin slice of land so build up rather than out. Hanoi has a number of lovely parks and big Lakes which inspire the ancient architects to build graceful temples nearby, and Museums with precious exhibits of Vietnam's Fine Arts, Ethnology, History and Recent Wars that attract not only historians but foreign visitors and local people.

Finally, the Hanoians are reckoned the warmest and most approachable in the country. Though English is not as commonly spoken as in Saigon, most of the shopkeepers have learnt English quite enough to discussion on the commodities and price, and many of the older generation have a working vocabulary of French. Regardless of language, people will attempt to chat with you irrespective of whether you can understand them. Many of the cyclo drivers speak some English and often have very interesting pasts that they are now willing to discuss with foreigners. At times in Hanoi, you could be sitting in a café sipping excellent coffee that Vietnam plant in the Central Highlands for domestic use and export, eating great pastries that is a pleasant trace of the French time, chatting in French to an old beret clad gentleman, whilst as you look out the window you can see posh French-style villas in the shadows of fig trees or malabar-almon trees. Then you can really wonder just what country you really are in. In a single word, Hanoi is a city to be savoured.

Hanoi – a mixture of discreet charm and excitement

To visit HANOI is to steep yourself in history, tradition, and legend in a capital that has been inhabited continuously for almost a millenium. Visitors often note that the city is quieter, greener, and "cooler" than other big cities of Vietnam. Indeed, Hanoi itself, and the Northern Vietnam, have quite clear four seasons, and October to March are lovely pretty cool months whilst other towns southward just have dry and rainy times. It probably influences in the mentality of the inhabitants and the city seems attract more intellectuals and artists, while Saigon is great for entrepreneurs and hustlers.

Hanoi's present architecture is mainly from the 19th and 20th centuries, and the French-built section of the town is largely intact. Yet, the city preserves many old religious temples and shrines dedicated to the nation's heroes or deities, who supported the farmers to cultivate and protect the fertile land on the Red River right bank and gather the first commercial guilds to form what later became an exciting urban town. Hanoi street life now is fascinating. In the early morning, you can see people both young and old practicing "tai chi quan" or martial arts in the parks and joggers along pretty lakes. Outdoor barbers with mirrors simply hung on the street walls and women selling great French baguettes and flowers are also at every street corner. If you go for a walk, the motorbikes and cyclos may make you wonder a bit which directions they move on, but as soon as you get a chance to try one of them, you could say they are not so risky like they seem to be, as the local drivers have extremely special skills to avoid one another (!). Thus a deliberate Cyclo tour for one or two hours is so far the best way to visit the Old Quarter, 90% of which are narrow and short streets.

During the two Indochinese Wars in 20th century, Hanoi had been heavily damaged, but there is virtually no evidence that now and the particularly thin, tall, often awkward-looking buildings that you see on streets are not a result of bombing, but are created by landowners who own only a thin slice of land so build up rather than out. Hanoi has a number of lovely parks and big Lakes which inspire the ancient architects to build graceful temples nearby, and Museums with precious exhibits of Vietnam's Fine Arts, Ethnology, History and Recent Wars that attract not only historians but foreign visitors and local people.

Finally, the Hanoians are reckoned the warmest and most approachable in the country. Though English is not as commonly spoken as in Saigon, most of the shopkeepers have learnt English quite enough to discussion on the commodities and price, and many of the older generation have a working vocabulary of French. Regardless of language, people will attempt to chat with you irrespective of whether you can understand them. Many of the cyclo drivers speak some English and often have very interesting pasts that they are now willing to discuss with foreigners. At times in Hanoi, you could be sitting in a café sipping excellent coffee that Vietnam plant in the Central Highlands for domestic use and export, eating great pastries that is a pleasant trace of the French time, chatting in French to an old beret clad gentleman, whilst as you look out the window you can see posh French-style villas in the shadows of fig trees or malabar-almon trees. Then you can really wonder just what country you really are in. In a single word, Hanoi is a city to be savoured.

AO DAI - THE TRADITIONAL DRESS OF VIETNAMESE FEMALES

In general; Vietnamese people dress conservatively. Although some young women wear more close-fitting; Western-style clothing; it is considered inappropriate to wear revealing clothes during the day. One Westerner teaching English in Viet Nam was advised to tuck her shirt into her trousers if she expected respect from her students. It is considered inappropriate for educated people to wear their shirts untucked.

AO DAI - AN ART

A lasting impression for any visitor to Vietnam is the beauty of the women dressed in their ao dais. Girls dressed in white pick their way through muddy streets going home from school or sail by in a graceful chatter on their bikes. Secretaries in delicate pastels greet you at an office door and older ladies in deep shades of purple; green or blue cut a striking pose eating dinner at a restaurant. The ao dai appears to flatter every figure. Its body-hugging top flows over wide trousers that brush the floor. Splits in the gown extend well above waist height and make it comfortable and easy to move in. Although virtually the whole body is swathed in soft flowing fabric; these splits give the odd glimpse of a bare midriff; making the outfit very sensual. Rapidly becoming the national costume for ladies; its development is actually very short compared to the country's history.

Pronounced "ao yai" in the south; but `ao zai` in the north; the color is indicative of the wearer`s age and status. Young girls wear pure white; fully lined outfits symbolizing their purity. As they grow older but are still unmarried they move into soft pastel shades. Only married women wear gowns in strong; rich colors; usually over white or black pants. The ao dai has always been more prevalent in the south than the north; but austerity drives after 1975 meant it was rarely anywhere seen for a number of years as it was considered an excess not appropriate for hard work. The nineties have seen a resurgence in the ao dai`s popularity. `It has become standard attire for many office workers and hotel staff as well as now being the preferred dress for more formal occasions;` says Huong; a secretary for a foreign company. `I feel proud of my heritage when I wear it.` For visitors; the pink and blue of the Vietnam Airlines uniform creates a lasting memory as they travel.

Early versions of the ao dai date back to 1744 when Lord Vu Vuong of the Nguyen Dynasty decreed both men and women should wear an ensemble of trousers and a gown that buttoned down the front. It was not until 1930 that the ao dai as we know it really appeared. Vietnamese fashion designer and writer Cat Tuong; or as the French knew him; Monsieur Le Mur; lengthened the top so it reached the floor; fitted the bodice to the curves of the body and moved the buttons from the front to an opening along the shoulder and side seam. Men wore it less; generally only on ceremonial occasions such as at weddings or funerals. But it took another twenty years before the next major design change was incorporated and the modern ao dai emerged. During the 1950s two tailors in Saigon; Tran Kim of Thiet Lap Tailors and Dung of Dung Tailors; started producing the gowns with raglan sleeves. This creates a diagonal seam running from the collar to the underarm and today; this style is still preferred.

Every ao dai is custom made; accounting for the fit that creates such a flattering look. Stores specialize in their production and a team of cutters; sewers and fitters ensure that the final product will highlight the figure of the wearer. Thuy; a fitter in Ho Chi Minh City; says; `To create the perfect fit; customers take their undergarments and shoes with them for the fittings.` The pants should reach the soles of the feet and flow along the floor.

Comfort has not been forgotten at the expense of fashion and beauty. The cut allows the wearer freedom of movement and despite covering the whole body; it is cool to wear. Synthetic fabrics are preferred as they do not crush and are quick drying; making the ao dai a practical uniform for daily wear. Its popularity may be its undoing as the garment is now being mass produced to make it more available and cheaper. The gown length appears to be gradually shortening and today is usually just below the knee. Variations in the neck; between boat and mandarin style; are common and even adventurous alterations such as a low scooped neckline; puffed sleeves or off the shoulder designs are appearing as ladies experiment with fashion. Colors are no longer as rigidly controlled and access to new fabrics has created some dazzling results. But most visitors to Vietnam agree that the tailors already have the perfect cut. It is hard to think of a more elegant; demure and yet sexy outfit; that suits Vietnamese women of all ages; than the ao dai
Historically; Vietnamese men dressed in mandarin style suits. With a tunic shorter and fuller than the ao dai; the suit’s color was traditionally determined by the man’s class and social rank. For example; a purple suit denoted a high rank while blue denoted a low rank. Status was also indicated through a variety of embroidered symbols. Today the mandarin suit is rarely worn except for in traditional dance or music performances.

CAT BA ISLAND

This is the largest island in the Cat Ba Archipelago that consists of 350 limestone outcrops adjacent to Halong. This is an oasis where you can be apart for one or a few days during a long voyage. If starting from Halong Wharf it will take you 4 hours by a tourist boat, with stopovers for swimming, visiting spectacular karst and having fresh seafoods. In a single word, you can contemplate the beautiful scenery of Halong before reaching the island. You can also buy a ticket of the hydrofoil departing from Hai Phong Seaport to reach Cat Ba if your itinerary saves Halong for another visit.

With an area of 356 square km wide, Cat Ba encompasses forested zones, coastal mangrove and freshwater swamps, beaches, caves, and waterfalls. In 1986, the Northeast side of the island was designated a National Park, including a protected marine zone. Cat Ba Island supports a population of over 20,000, most of whom live off fishing or farming in the South, in and around Cat Ba Town. The town is small and ancient, with clusters of fishing boats and inspiring sunsets across the harbor. You can check out the catch of the day in the early morning , see cuttlefish dried over hot charcoals, or stroll around the old town. It's a short hike from Cat Ba town through a tunnel to Cat Co Beach, whose mountains look like a throne holding a marvelous sandy coast, or if you hike further along, you will reach the rockier Cat Vang Beach.

As transportation on the town is not so well-developed, motorbikes is the most helpful means to get you to the larger Trung Trang Cave with many chambers, or to the National Park, or to discover other beaches around the island. A tourguide is necessary to help you communicate with the local drivers and introduce these viewpoints. The national park contains stringy trees, thick undergrowth and slippery vines. There is a great view that includes a French, now Vietnamese, farming village from the top of the mountain and a lake in the middle of the park that takes a half day to reach.

Vietnamese Handicraft Villages

For centuries hundreds of villages all over Vietnam have produced special crafts and products that are used for Tet (Vietnamese Lunar New Year) celebrations and other holidays. Sometimes, the production of these beautiful objects can absorb the attention of everyone in the village...The very best of these ‘factories’ are recognized by Vietnamese people as the best producers of a particular object; and enjoy national recognition for their handiwork. Everything from firecrackers to silk paintings; woodcarvings to ceramics and puppets to pottery are made in these locations and can make unique gifts for friends and family at home; or as an exotic reminder of your trip to Vietnam. When paying a visit; you can chat with these artisans; and even try the handiwork yourself.

Bat Trang Pottery Village:

The Bat Trang pottery village is one of the most famous of the craft villages in Vietnam. It’s so close to Hanoi; you can visit it on a half day tour. Famous for its fired clay pottery (with a temperature of 1;200 degrees; the ceramics are well known for being difficult to break) Since the 15th century this village of the 2;000 families has been creating earthenware and ceramic creations.


Ha Dong Silk Making Village:

Villagers gather mulberry leaves to feed the hungry silkworms. The traditional way of growing silkworms was imported from China; and today flourishes in many parts of the country. When the worms have woven a silken cocoon; the animals are boiled and the cocoon is carefully unraveled. The thread is carefully woven into all sorts of different things like placemats; shirts; etc.

Chuyen My Wood Carving Village:

Located in the Ha Tay province; this village is famous for creating more traditional crafts related to wood carving. It’s the mother of pearl inlay that makes it so popular; and this wasn’t started until the Ly Dynasty. A visit here can be made in combination with a trip to Hoa Lu; because its 35 kilometers south of Hanoi.

Van Ha Puppet Making Village:

Vietnamese Water Puppet shows are now popular the world over; and if you have an interest in how the implements of this art form are made; come to the Van Ha village.

Duyen Thai Lacquerware Village:

In this village; all kinds of lacquerware products are made; including those using small slivers of mother of pearl; that are expertly placed into small grooves. The pieces are then painted with layers of lacquer. Each piece can take months to complete.

Dong Ho Paper Making Village:

This village is located in Ha Bac province; the province just north of Hanoi. It’s been made famous for the folk themes printed onto a special paper made from the Do tree. Artisans in this village carve images onto thin wood blocks that are carefully layered with paint; then printed onto the specially made paper. These designs are particularly popular around Tet.

Co Do Silk Village:

Sent to this village by her father; to help villagers grow silk; Princess Hoang Phu Thieu Hoa helped begin an industry that stretches all over the country today. Silk is produced by special worms that eat soley mulberry leaves; and these are gathered by children to feed the greedy animals. Once they have rolled a cocoon; the animals are boiled alive; and the cocoon is unraveled carefully to extract the precious thread. Popular designs include dragons; flowers and other Vietnamese legends.

Thu Bon River Islands:

While visiting the historic and ancient port town of Hoi An; stop off at some of the islands in Thu Bon river; where artisans creating woodblock prints; silk weavings and other crafts offer a uniquely central Vietnamese art experience.

Vietnam, Land of World Heritages

There are 5 world's heritage sites in Vietnam. They are really treasures of world' culture! Please, come to explore by yourself...

HALONG BAY:

Halong Bay is only 155 kms away from the capital and it takes about nearly 3 hours to ride. Located in the Northeast; Halong annually attracts about 90% visits coming to Vietnam. It is a bay in the Goft of Tonkin; including Halong City; Campha Town; and Vandon Island District. It borders the main land; East Sea in the East; Catba Island in the Southeast. It has nearly 2000 islands and islets; all of which are limestone and dolomites with lots of grottoes. And most of islands here take names from their shapes; such as: Dragon Island; Human Head Island; male and female Chicken Island… Coming here; tourists will be astonished; excited because it’s magnificent; vivid with strong waves; high mountains but very romantic and mild sight as well.

HUE:

Hue is the capital of Vietnam under the Nguyen dynasty from 1802 to 1945. It is now considered to be one of the most beautiful cities in Vietnam. There is no place in Vietnam that you still can find as many historical vestiges as you can in this ancient capital city.On the northern bank of the Perfume River; there are lots of palaces including over 100 architecture works well-reflecting lives of the Kings and mandarins under the Nguyen reign. And in the southern bank of the river; there are many King tombs of which the most famous are 4 tombs of Gia Long; Tu Duc; Minh Mang and Khai Dinh. It is so interesting to take a boat tripping along Perfume River to enjoy its peace. You can also stop at Hue’s unofficial symbol -the Heaven Lady Pagoda which is a Buddhist monastery. There you can also see the car driven by a monk to Saigon in 1963 to protest the South Vietnam regime and its treatment to Buddhism.Hue is also where the royal music was formed. And coming here; visitors will also have chances to taste Hue cuisine; considered to be one of the best in Vietnam. Hue was honored to be the World Cultural Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1993.

HOI AN:

Located about 30km Southern away from Danang; lying on the bank of Thu Bon River; Hoi An is one of the most attractive; characteristic places in Vietnam. Formerly known as Faifo; Hoi An was one the busiest trade centers in Southeast Asia area where merchants from Europe; China; the Middle East and Japan gathered to sell their goods from 16th century to 19th century. It is on the famous silk route linking China with the Far East. Remnants of these past traders are still able to be seen here with different types of historical sites including bridges; tombs; private houses; community halls; temples; pagodas... Houses along narrow streets here are distinct with low roofs; colorful wooden doors windows shuttle and ornamental furniture. Visitors coming here can make a visit to lots of relics such as: Sa Huynh; Cham...It is also a good place to go shopping because there are full of shops selling artwork; souvenir statues; ceramic plates; antique bowls; quality garments...

MY SON:

My Son locates about 68kms away from Danang. It was one of the most important Holy lands of Cham people under the Cham Dynasty from the late of 4th century to 12th century. There are a lot of religious relics here including temples; towers known as the best collection of Cham art and architecture. Each tower worships a genie or king of different dynasty of Cham and each one has different style; such as: the ancient style in the 7th-8th centuries; the Hoa Lai style of the 8th-9th centuries; the Dong Duong style from the mid-9th century; the My Son and My Son-Binh Dinh style… But all of them comprise 3 parts: solid power base; the mysterious and sacred tower body and the tower top. Though there have been lots of monuments being destroyed by war; thieves or fire; but the remaining now covered with dense vegetable is still considerable and it’s really worthy to come here to make an exploration.

PHONG NHA:

“The World first-class grotto”; It is Phong Nha. Lied on the Truong Son range in Quang Binh province; Phong Nha; with its marvelous beauty is considered by Viet people to be their Holy Land. More than 95% of the area is limestone formations; grottoes and caves. Tourists coming here will have chances to make surprising; fascinating explorations to Dragon Mouth which once you pass; you can see rows of stalactites high above your heads from which “sacred milks” dropping unceasingly; or Hang Pagoda is made with stalactites running from the grottoes’ ceiling to floor; which are considered “the universal axes” that link heaven and hell…in Phong Nha cave known as the most beautiful here. Phong Nha also has a very attractive primitive tropical forest with a diverse ecosystem. Here houses various kinds of animals and plants concluding about 32 kinds mentioned in Vietnam Red Book and other 16 kinds in the World Red Book.Phong Nha surely satisfies who interested in historical relics with Kinh Ham Ham Nghi’s base; Xuan Son ferry station; Cham ethnic minority’s script…